Porticoes of Turin: History, Itinerary and What to See
Why Turin's Porticoes Are Unique in Italy, Which Ones to Walk and What They Tell About the City
I arrived in Turin the first weekend of October. The historic center hosted Portici di Carta, an event that turns the city's arcades into a long outdoor bookstore every year. Walking among the stands, I noticed something. The real stars weren't just the books. It was mainly the arcades themselves. Walking from Piazza Castello to Via Po, I understood why they're a city symbol. They're not just architectural features. They truly change how you visit Turin.
The arcades were designed in the 17th century as part of the urban plan by the House of Savoy. They allowed the court and nobility to move around sheltered from the weather. Over time, the network expanded across much of the center. It now stretches to 18 kilometers, with over 12 consecutive kilometers. It's one of Italy's largest networks, second only to Bologna, which exceeds 62 kilometers and has UNESCO recognition. The history of the two paths is different, though. In Bologna, arcades emerged spontaneously in the Middle Ages as house extensions. In Turin, they were part of a single, planned project. This makes them more uniform and elegant, like one large open-air arcade.
Their value isn't just in kilometers. Squares, shops, bookstores, historic cafes, and monumental buildings are all connected by the same arches. I especially enjoyed stopping at some historic cafes. A moment of pause, watching locals and tourists pass under the arches, then continuing my walk. They're useful in every season: shade on hot days, shelter from rain and snow in winter.
Which arcades to see in Turin
If you're short on time, try these spots:
Piazza Castello, the city's heart and a great starting point;
Via Po, which left a strong impression on me: historic buildings lead to Piazza Vittorio Veneto, with the Po and Gran Madre in the background;
Piazza San Carlo, among Turin's most elegant arcades;
Via Roma, perfect for shopping, leading to Porta Nuova station.
If time allows, go beyond the arcades to the Po: in minutes, you move from covered galleries to the river's open spaces, with Gran Madre in front and the Alps in the background on clear days.
When I think of Turin, no single monument comes to mind. I remember the long covered gallery from Portici di Carta, the river crossing it, and the mountains suddenly visible at the end of a street. Arcades, Po Po and Alps together tell of a city offering so much.
