Explore the charm of Trani's historic center
Discover Trani's historic center filled with history and beauty.
This summer, I had only two days off. So, I decided on a quick trip. I was already in Bari for work, staying in Bari Vecchia. The simplest idea was to take a train and visit a coastal city. I planned it myself because I had little time, so no travel agency.
Traveling by train, I could reach several nice places near Bari. Options included Monopoli, Molfetta, Polignano a Mare, Trani, Andria, and Bisceglie. I had never been to Trani, so that morning, I took a Regional train from Bari Centrale. It cost only 3.10 euros and took 41 minutes. The Intercity train is faster at 29 minutes but costs more (11 euros) and can be late. Regional trains are comfortable and very punctual.
Outside Trani station, I saw no taxis, which discouraged me a bit because I'm quite lazy. I couldn't see the Castello Svevo, the Cathedral, or the port. Trani is built on a gentle slope toward the sea. The station is in the upper, more modern part, while historical sites are on the coast, hidden by the old town buildings.
At the station square, signs pointed the way. Being somewhat tech-savvy, I used my GPS. It was a straight 1.3 km walk, manageable.
The walk was pleasant because it was warm but not muggy. I crossed Piazza XX Settembre, lined with 19th-century buildings. They still display noble family crests on their portals. Unfortunately, they're private and not open to visitors.
Luckily, I saw the entrance to the Church of San Francesco di Assisi open. It's the most important building in the square. I entered to admire this medieval church (12th century) with its three Romanesque-Byzantine domes.
Then I continued straight on Corso Vittorio Emanuele II, Trani's commercial and elegant area. With my modest budget, I didn't buy anything from the high-end shops or jewelry stores.
But I did visit some jewelry workshops. Many artisans create unique accessories and design objects with Trani Stone, the famous white carbonate rock, the same used for the Cathedral.
From Corso Vittorio Emanuele, I could see the Cathedral. I ventured into the old town and soon reached Piazza Duomo.
The Cathedral suddenly appears, directly overlooking the sea. Its light stone stands out against the Adriatic blue. This stunning optical effect rightly earns it the title "Queen of Puglia's Cathedrals."
The church is majestic, with 3 overlapping churches: the crypt of San Nicola, Santa Maria, and the upper church. It looks like a grand ship ready to sail.
I entered the Cathedral and was struck by its simple interior. The soft light makes it cozy, especially in the underground crypt where Saint Nicola Pellegrino's relics are kept. The only downside is the bell tower's entry fee: 5 euros seemed a bit much, especially for families with kids. I get that it's paid, but a lower price might attract more visitors. In the end, the total income could be the same. Still, it's a beautiful church to visit and enjoy a quiet prayer.
Leaving the Cathedral, I realized it was lunchtime. I wanted to end my trip with a meal at a portside restaurant.
In Piazza Duomo, there's clear signage, though the path is intuitive. The Cathedral is surrounded by the sea on three sides, and the port basin is just beyond, on the left.
But it was too hot, and I didn't feel like walking. I looked around and noticed what I hadn't seen before.
In Piazza Duomo, right across from the Cathedral, there's a restaurant. I sat inside the air-conditioned room, near a window with a view of the church's white stone.
I ordered a local dish, rice with potatoes and mussels, paired with a glass of local white wine. It was so good, I had seconds and even thirds, complimenting the chef.
The bill wasn't much (22.50 euros), and the house even offered me coffee.