Explore the charm of Trani's historic center
Discover Trani's historic center filled with history and beauty.
This summer, I had just two vacation days. So, I decided on a quick trip. I was already in Bari for work, staying in Bari Vecchia. The simplest idea was to take a train and visit a coastal city. I organized it myself because I had little time and didn't contact any travel agency.
Traveling by train, I could reach several beautiful nearby places. They were all well-connected to Bari. I could choose between Monopoli, Molfetta, Polignano a Mare, Trani, Andria, and Bisceglie. I had never been to Trani, so that morning I took the Regional train from Bari Centrale. It cost only 3.10 euros and took 41 minutes. The Intercity train is more expensive (11 euros) but a bit faster (29 minutes), if not delayed. Regional trains are comfortable and very punctual.
Outside Trani station, I didn't see any taxis. I felt a bit discouraged because I'm quite lazy. I couldn't see the Swabian Castle, the Cathedral, or the port. Trani is built on a gentle slope toward the sea. The station is in the higher, more modern part of the city. The historical monuments are on the coast, hidden by the old town buildings.
At the station square, signs pointed the way. Being a moderately tech-savvy tourist, I used my navigator. It was a straight 1.3 km walk, manageable.
The walk was very pleasant. It was warm but not humid. I crossed Piazza XX Settembre, lined with 19th-century buildings. They still display noble family crests on their portals. It's a pity they're private and not open to visitors.
Luckily, I saw the entrance to the Church of San Francesco di Assisi open. It's the most important building in the square. I went in to admire this medieval church (12th century) with its three Romanesque-Byzantine domes.
Then I continued straight on Corso Vittorio Emanuele II. It's Trani's commercial and elegant area. With my modest budget, I didn't buy anything in the high-end shops or jewelry stores.
But I did visit some jewelry workshops. Many artisans create unique accessories and design objects using Trani Stone. It's the same famous white carbonate rock as the Cathedral.
From Corso Vittorio Emanuele, I could finally see the Cathedral. So, I headed into the old town and soon arrived at Piazza Duomo.
The Cathedral suddenly appears, overlooking the sea. Its light stone stands out against the Adriatic's blue. This amazing optical effect rightly earned it the title 'Queen of Puglia's Cathedrals.'
The church is majestic, with three overlapping churches. These are the crypt of San Nicola, Santa Maria, and the upper church. It looks like a grand ship ready to sail.
I entered the Cathedral and was struck by its simple interior. The soft light makes it cozy, especially in the underground crypt. Here, the relics of patron Nicola Pellegrino are kept. The only downside? The bell tower costs 5 euros to visit. It seemed a bit much, especially for families. I get that there's a fee, but a lower price might attract more visitors. In the end, revenue could stay the same. Still, it's a beautiful church to visit and pray in silence.
Leaving the Cathedral, I realized it was lunchtime. I wanted to end my trip with a meal at a port restaurant.
There's signage in Piazza Duomo, but the path is intuitive. The Cathedral is surrounded by the sea on three sides. The port basin develops immediately after, on the left side.
But it was too hot, and I didn't feel like walking. I looked around and saw what I hadn't noticed before.
In Piazza Duomo, right in front of the Cathedral, there's a restaurant. I sat in the air-conditioned room, near a window with a view of the church's white stone.
I ordered a local dish, rice, potatoes, and mussels, with a glass of local white wine. It was so good, I had seconds and even thirds, complimenting the chef.
The bill wasn't even high (22.50 euros), and they offered me coffee.