Where to eat Piedmontese cuisine in Torino without paying tourist prices
Those looking for authentic Piedmontese cuisine in Torino should not limit themselves to the historic center. In the Borgo San Paolo neighborhood, there are trattorias and osterias frequented mainly by locals, where agnolotti, tajarin, and bolliti are served at prices that still reflect everyday Tor
When planning a visit to Turin, you naturally look for restaurants near the historic center. It makes sense--you're already there, places are easy to find, and online reviews are plentiful. The problem is, prices in these areas often reflect a one-time-only clientele. Quality is there, but you're also paying for the location, just steps from major tourist attractions.
If you want to enjoy serious Piedmontese cuisine at local prices, head to the residential neighborhoods. Borgo San Paolo is one of these areas.
Originally a working-class neighborhood around Turin's big industries, it has revitalized over time without losing its identity. It's a quiet but lively area with an interesting food scene, mainly serving locals. It's about five kilometers from the Mole, for reference. It's not a place you stumble upon during a walk in the historic center, but it's easily accessible by public transport. If your goal is to see how Turin really eats, it's worth the trip.
Two places worth stopping by
During one of our food explorations, we tried two spots in the neighborhood: Osteria Le Ramin-e and Cantinone San Paolo. We chose them because they're often recommended when asking where to eat Piedmontese in Borgo San Paolo.
Osteria Le Ramin-e has exposed bricks, bottles on shelves, striped tablecloths, and wooden chairs with cushions. It's like a cozy cellar that doubles as a trattoria. You might lower your voice when you enter, but end up chatting more than expected.
Cantinone San Paolo feels different. It has light wood shelves full of bottles and simple tables. It's more of a cellar than a trattoria, with a minimalist vibe. At Le Ramin-e, bricks add warmth. At Cantinone, it's the wood and cellar feel. Personally, I found Le Ramin-e's atmosphere more engaging, but that's just my taste.
Here's a practical tip: Friday nights are busier and a bit noisier. The chatter is typical for such places, part of the experience. But if you want a quiet dinner, go on a weekday.
Both places serve above-average food. At Le Ramin-e, I tried the boiled meat, a classic Piedmont dish. At Cantinone, I ordered tajarin with sausage ragù and a glass of Barbera.
The menus follow Piedmontese tradition: Fassona tartare, agnolotti, plin with roast sauce, tajarin, boiled meat, rabbit, veal stew. Prices are similar at both spots: appetizers around 11-12 euros, first courses 11-12 euros, main courses 14-15 euros, desserts 6 euros. Expect to spend 35 to 50 euros per person for appetizer, main, dessert, and wine. In central Turin, this quality is hard to find at these prices.
