Focaccia a Libro: Puglian Delight
Focaccia a libro from Sammichele di Bari is a unique delight, a gastronomic experience that encapsulates the authentic flavors of Puglia.
Where does focaccia a libro come from?
Sammichele di Bari is a small town in the Bari hinterland. Here, among the white houses and quiet alleys, one of Italy's most curious focaccias is born. It is not flat or round, but closed like a book and then rolled up like a spiral. The dough encloses a simple yet fragrant filling: Puglian extra virgin olive oil, oregano, cherry tomatoes, olives, and capers. A mix that tells the story of the countryside, simplicity, and the ingenuity of the poor kitchens of the past.
An origin between history and legend
The origins of focaccia a libro are lost between history and legend. Some say it was introduced by Miguel Vaaz, Count of Mola in the 17th century, of Portuguese and Jewish descent. Others recount that it was born in the late 18th century when a quick focaccia was prepared at home, to be cooked in the time of ten prayers. But the most fascinating hypothesis sees it as a collective invention of peasant families, who needed a "hand-held" meal, practical to take to the fields and eat with their hands.
A festival to celebrate it
Every year in September, Sammichele di Bari celebrates the “fecazze a livre” with a festival that attracts visitors from all over the region. It is the perfect opportunity to discover this delicacy, taste it fresh out of the oven, and see how it is prepared live. During the festival, visitors can also watch preparation demonstrations and savor variations of the focaccia, enriched with local ingredients.
How is it prepared?
Explaining it in detail is Fulvio Marino, one of Italy's most renowned bakers, in a video recipe that guides step by step. The dough consists of: soft wheat flour (possibly from local varieties like maiorca or risciola), boiled and mashed potatoes, extra virgin olive oil, brewer's yeast, water, and salt (once sourced from the salt pans of Margherita di Savoia). After an hour of rising, it is rolled out into an oval shape. The filling is spread, leaving the edges free. The ends are folded towards the center, closing it "like a book," and then rolled up to form a spiral.
Why should you taste it?
Focaccia a libro is not just delicious; it is a cultural and gastronomic experience. It is different from other Puglian focaccias and encapsulates the authentic flavors of the land, the wisdom of grandmothers, and the practicality of a time when every meal had to be simple and nourishing. If you are traveling in Puglia, a stop in Sammichele to taste it is a small journey back in time. And you might even take one home to enjoy warm, slice by slice, as has been done for centuries.
How to get to Sammichele di Bari?
Sammichele is located about 30 km from Bari, easily reachable by car. Those arriving by train can stop at the Gioia del Colle or Acquaviva delle Fonti stations and then continue by bus or taxi. It is a perfect destination for a day trip, especially during the festival, but also at any time of the year if you love discovering the true local flavors away from mass tourism.
