Alicudi on foot: from the port to the summit of Filo dell'Arpa
From the black pebble beach, one ascends through lava staircases, scattered houses, terraces, blooming flowers, and expansive sea views.
In Alicudi, you don't need a complicated itinerary. Just land at the port and start climbing. The island has no car roads. Its paths are mule tracks and stone steps starting near the sea. The most complete route begins at Spiaggia di Alicudi Porto. It goes through scattered houses and old terraces, reaching up to Filo dell'Arpa, the island's peak at 675 meters.
Before climbing, it's worth stopping at the small Spiaggia di Alicudi Porto on the southeast coast. It's a narrow strip of gray pebbles, surrounded by village houses and often filled with colorful fishing boats. Most importantly, it has a unique feature: it's the only beach on the island you can reach on foot. Other coves and coast parts require traveling by sea.
From Spiaggia di Alicudi Porto to Filo dell'Arpa's peak
After leaving the beach, the best way to understand Alicudi is to start climbing. A staircase begins at the small pier, winding through houses and gradually reaching higher districts. Here, the mule tracks aren't tourist attractions. They're the island's connection network, used to move between the port, homes, and fields.
The path alternates between steps, paved sections, and long stone staircases. As you climb higher, houses become sparse and old terraces appear, some now abandoned. Just turn around to see how high you've climbed: the port looks smaller, and your view opens to the sea surrounding the island.
If you want to turn the walk into a real hike, continue to Filo dell'Arpa, the highest point of Alicudi. The peak reaches 675 meters. Its name might come from *arpa* or *arpazza*, a dialect word for the buzzard, a bird of prey in the Aeolian archipelago.
The path upward follows the same logic as Alicudi's layout: from the sea, you mostly go uphill, crossing terraces and less inhabited areas. Vegetation changes with the seasons. In late autumn, you might see daffodils and cyclamens along the path. In spring, various small orchids bloom, including the horned orchid.
Reaching Filo dell'Arpa lets you see the island from a new perspective. In just a few hundred meters, you go from the beach and port boats to 675 meters above sea level, without any car-accessible roads. This is probably the best way to understand Alicudi: start from the sea and walk, step by step, to its peak. If you plan to stay longer, it's good to know where to sleep and eat on Alicudi and how many days to stay, because accommodations, dining, and services are very limited on the island.
