The beloved popizze baresi of Puglia
Popizze baresi are delicious snacks from Puglia, crispy and soft, representing the essence of Bari's culinary tradition.
Exit the Cathedral of San Sabino and you're already in Bari Vecchia. You don't need to search for anything: just follow your nose to the popizze. The smell of frying hits you before you see anything.
It's not a restaurant. It's just an open door, a pan on the fire, and someone frying non-stop. People stand eating, leaning against the wall--that's the sign you're in the right place.
Popizze are fried dough balls, served hot in paper. They usually come with sgagliozze: fried polenta squares, crispy outside, soft inside. You don't choose much: just ask for a portion and eat what you get.
Prices range from 2 to 3 €. There's no sign, and they don't tell you upfront. You pay at the end, usually in cash, without much fuss.
They go well with a beer. In Bari, Peroni is the most popular. Wine is different, though. Fried food needs something fresh and light, not heavy.
The best time is after 5 PM. That's when the light fades and the alleys fill up. On weekends, there's more people and energy. It becomes a spontaneous meeting spot, not just a stop.
If you've spent the morning at Molo San Nicola and the afternoon at Pane e Pomodoro, popizze end the day nicely. There's no logical order, but it often happens this way.
You stop for five minutes, your fingers get greasy, the paper gets stained. Then you move on.
