Sport climbing in Cogne between beauty and adventure

The Cogne Valley always offers something fun to do. You've got waterfalls, Gran Paradiso, and lots of rocks to try. Today, I'll tell you about two climbing spots. One is super accessible for beginners. The other is tougher and more "modern," bolted by an expert.

Obviously, I've tried the first one. So, let me tell you about the Lillaz crag, the perfect "family" spot. It's right in the village of Lillaz, just steps from the famous waterfalls. You know, the ones you see on postcards. The rock is solid with comfy horizontal holds. Routes range from 3b to 5c, averaging around 4c. It's south-facing, so it's nice even in mid-seasons. The approach is easy, just 15-30 minutes on foot. The scenery is beautiful: the sound of water, views of glaciers and mountains. The routes are equipped and maintained by Cogne's alpine guides. They're safe and well-bolted, perfect for bringing beginner friends or warming up without big risks.

Then there's Pont d'Aël, which is a different story. It's lower down, near Aymavilles, at the valley's entrance. Matteo Giglio bolted it with some friends. There are about 26 routes on super compact gneiss. They range from 6a to 8a. Two main sectors: "Big Bang" has technical slabs that reward precise footwork, and "Cengia sospesa" is more physical and endurance-based. Routes go up to 26 meters, with modern bolting (stainless resin bolts, Raumer chains). It's a 25-minute approach. Perfect for summer or autumn afternoons when it's too hot higher up.

If you don't know Valle d'Aosta, even experienced climbers should start at Lillaz. Not because of difficulty, but for the environment. Mountains are like the sea: knowing how to swim isn't enough, you need to understand them. And understanding takes time. Lillaz is a great starting point to get familiar with the place, the climate, the approaches, and how the day changes up there.