Laris in Champorcher the ideal ski resort

I discovered Champorcher almost by accident, and that's why I like it. It's a small, tucked-away place without the immediate "wow" of big Valdostan resorts. No flashy lifts, no endless lines. At first, you might wonder if it's worth it. But slowly, you realize that's the charm.

I've been there in two very different seasons: winter for ski touring and freeride, summer for mountain biking. Both times weren't perfect, but the place gives you more than it promises.

In winter, I mostly explored around Laris. You can easily take the gondola from Chardonney to Laris station, then the Cimetta Rossa chairlift. At the top, there's nothing spectacular: no "postcard" views. Right off the chairlift, I turned right, following the path toward the power line. Initially, it feels like you're going the wrong way, especially if you don't know the area.

The valley opens up gradually. The trail follows an old mule track leading to Col di Laris. It's not a technical climb, but it's not easy either. With skins, you move smoothly, without tough stretches, making it perfect for stress-free days. After a while, you pass near Lago Laris. In winter, it's almost always covered, but you can tell where it is: the terrain changes slightly, forming a quiet basin. It's one of those spots where you stop just to look around.

From the hill, I decided to head towards Bec Mulère. It's not a tough peak, but the view is amazing: Monte Rosa, Cervino, and Rosa dei Banchi. The descent is the best part. I took the most direct line at first, then stayed on the right side. The north exposure keeps the snow better there. It wasn't a perfect powder day, but the snow was still nice. Skiing through the larches was enjoyable. Returning to Laris, I completed a clean loop without needing to re-skin or take odd routes.

It's not an extreme route: I'd say it's medium difficulty, about 650 meters of descent. The real advantage is the peace. Even after snowfall, the snow lasts longer here than in busier areas.

In summer, the same area changes completely. I started from Hone, down below, on a long but logical route. The asphalt to Mont Blanc flows well, then the dirt road to Dondena begins. It's a climb that doesn't hit you hard but wears you down slowly. At Rifugio Dondena, I turned left, and the slope gets serious there. The mule track is well-maintained, and even when your legs start protesting, you know you're going the right way.

Arriving at Laris, I wanted to stop at the bar, but I decided to push on to Cimetta Rossa. The last kilometers aren't all rideable, but it's worth it: the descent from up there is continuous, smooth, all on the bike. It's not one of those GoPro video descents, but it leaves you tired and satisfied at the end.

Champorcher isn't Cervinia or Courmayeur, and that's why I appreciate it. If you're looking for a less crowded valley, with routes that reward exploration, not speed, add it to your list.